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						<title><![CDATA[The Dogs Bone - Blogs]]></title>
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					  <title><![CDATA[Get Your Dog To Stop Chasing Cars]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.thedogsbone.com/blogs/6/Get-Your-Dog-To-Stop-Chasing-Cars.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
Although very unsafe behavior, chasing vehicles is very worthwhile for the dog. Man's best friends loves to go after anything that moves, and the faster it runs, the better.&#160; To crack down on this practice, you must negate the benefits of the hunt. Chasing vehicles is mostly done by canines that have free reign of the whole property and don't see many vehicles. 
Expose your doggy to traffic by ensuring that you walk on busy streets periodically.&#160; Command him to be still in a sit-stay position as vehicles pass, and move the collar back if he tries to move.&#160; You can set your four legged friend up for a car chase retraining session by having a friend ready with various cans filled with pebbles, for a noisy effect. Have your friend drive up to or past the place where your dog begins to chase cars. Tell your friend to apply the brakes as fast and as noisily as possible, when your dog is at a full run after the car. When the car does come to a noisy stop, get your fellow dog trainer to jump out of the car and create a stupendous din, by throwing the cans near your four legged friend. Dogs don't like loud noises generally.
If your dog is not likely to snap, have your friend aggressively run after him, herding him home, and throwing tins by his rear.&#160;Make sure you don't hit your dog however.Repeat this setup with different automobiles, and if possible, other friends, until the recalcitrant canine stops chasing cars.&#160; You can also use this retraining session when man's best friend acquires the potentially dangerous habit of chasing bikers, joggers, and horse riders.]]></description>
					  <author>Rebecca Prescott</author>
					  <pubDate>Sun, 03 Sep 2006 00:00:00 EDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[When Your Dog Refuses To Walk On A Leash]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.thedogsbone.com/blogs/5/When-Your-Dog-Refuses-To-Walk-On-A-Leash.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
When you're walking your dog and he suddenly stops, don't make the mistake of jerking the leash or trying to drag him along. This will just make him want to move away from you, not walking with you.
Another mistake people make is by giving their dog attention when he stops suddenly. This reinforces his behaviour.
The best way to deal with your dog when he isn't cooperating on his walk is to stand still, facing away from your dog. Put gentle pressure on the leash and wait. If your dog moves even an inch towards you, start praising him. Dogs learn well by positive reinforcement.
Another option is to go to the end of the leash and kneel down, facing away from him. Wait for him to come to you and praise him every step of the way.
How long it takes your dog to start walking doesn't really matter, though it shouldn't take more than a minute or two. He eventually will resume walking. If he stops again, move another few feet away from him and repeat the process.
Sometimes dogs are afraid to walk on a leash. If this is the case, you'll need to take him out on a few confidence building training sessions on a leash. Don't take him out for a walk when you're running an errand and you're in a hurry. You'll get frustrated, and the right environment in which to teach your dog, and to overcome his fear and lack of confidence, will not be created this way. Save the errand walks for when your dog has settled into walking on a leash properly.]]></description>
					  <author>Rebecca Prescott</author>
					  <pubDate>Wed, 30 Aug 2006 00:00:00 EDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[How To Introduce A New Puppy To Other Pets]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.thedogsbone.com/blogs/4/How-To-Introduce-A-New-Puppy-To-Other-Pets.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
Introducing a puppy to the existing pets in a household is accomplished positively if the established house-pet is acknowledged before the puppy is acknowledged.
1. Before bringing puppy home, feed your established pet a partial meal.
2. When you bring the puppy home, bring your pet outside to greet the puppy. If you have a particularly dominant-type pet, arrange this meeting a block or so from your home.
3. Walk the pet with the puppy (however well you can get the puppy to walk!) and let the existing pet sniff the puppy all he wants. Stay outside for forty-five minutes to an hour.
4. Take the pet and puppy into the house and just walk around the house for ten to fifteen minutes, letting everyone get adjusted to a new body in the house.
5. Feed the established pet another partial meal and let puppy watch.
6. Feed the established pet again, and this time put a bowl down for puppy. If the other pet comes to the puppy's bowl, tell him &#34;No.&#34; Whenever you feed your animals, feed the older ones first, but make them respect the puppy's bowl.]]></description>
					  <author>Rebecca Prescott</author>
					  <pubDate>Sun, 27 Aug 2006 00:00:00 EDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[Are You Buying A Show Quality Dog - Know Your Rights]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.thedogsbone.com/blogs/3/Are-You-Buying-A-Show-Quality-Dog---Know-Your-Rights.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
When a show-quality dog is purchased, there should always be a written contract between the buyer and seller. The problem in buying your first show dog is that you often do not have enough information to know what must be included in the contract. The following issues must be addressed:
1. Request a health provision that guarantees normalcy in the hips, elbows and eyes; no blood deficiencies; no inherited diseases particular to the breed that are life endangering or will restrict breeding capabilities; no breed disqualifications or faults so severe as to effect a condition that would make it impossible or highly improbable to finish the dog's championship.
2. If a co-ownership is involved, be exact as to the rights and responsibilities of both owner and co-owner.
3. Be specific about whether there will be a replacement of the dog or a refunding of money if the contract becomes void. Note who takes control of the dog in question.
4. If the purchase includes a &#34;puppy-back package,&#34; be specific as to which puppies in which litters (for example, seller gets choice of first and third puppy from first litter).]]></description>
					  <author>Rebecca Prescott</author>
					  <pubDate>Sun, 27 Aug 2006 00:00:00 EDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[Stress and Chewing Problems In Dogs]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.thedogsbone.com/blogs/2/Stress-and-Chewing-Problems-In-Dogs.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
The way we interact with our dogs, combined with their own predisposition, can lead to problem behaviours developing.
Most problems in dogs, such as chewing, are related to stress. Dogs who are prone to chewing may often choose objects that smell of the owner, especially if the chewing is related to a stress about the owner's absence.
If a dog is doted on, and receives 'praise on demand' all the time on the weekend, it can lead to him wanting constant social gratification. During the week, when the owner is absent at work, the dog can become frustrated that his 'emotional food' is gone. This is especially true if he is left alone for long periods of time. Boredom is another factor here.
Whilst a certain amount of stress is healthy, some dogs are more prone to a stress type reaction more than others, even if they are from the same litter.]]></description>
					  <author>Rebecca Prescott</author>
					  <pubDate>Sat, 05 Aug 2006 00:00:00 EDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[Dog Pheromones Linked To Aggression]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.thedogsbone.com/blogs/1/Dog-Pheromones-Linked-To-Aggression.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
Dog pheromones are chemicals that are secreted externally (as opposed to hormones which are secreted inside a dog's body). They are believed to work through smell, and influence the way a group of dogs integrate and relate to each other. They are likely to be a factor in fighting and aggressiveness.
Whilst not completely understood, some researchers believe dogs release pheromones in their urine and feces, and possibly in their breath when they exhale, as well as from glands beneath the skin at the base of the tail and on the pads of the dog's feet.
If this is true, it would explain why aggressive dogs are often compulsive urine sniffers and markers. It would also explain why they are less aggressive when their owners do not allow them to sniff or mark.
Dog pheromones can act as a trigger to aggressive behaviour. For example, when a dog seems to sense, through smell, another dog that they feel is a threat. Or the case of aggressive dogs that bite marking a strange (to them) territory with their own pheromones before they attack. This can occur in their home territory as well. 
Owners can try restricting the problem dog's urinating/marking to one area of his own yard. This tends to reduce the dog's aggressiveness, as well as lower his tendency to urinate in the house.&#160; 
More information on pheromones and mammals here: http://www.hhmi.org/senses/d230.html ]]></description>
					  <author>Rebecca Prescott</author>
					  <pubDate>Tue, 27 Jun 2006 00:00:00 EDT</pubDate>
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